A far departure from the “egghead” shaped models designed in the 90’s, today’s helmets are sleek, stylish and lightweight enough to be worn comfortably in any conditions. Technical features have also come forward in leaps and bounds, leading to better fit and protective function in more affordable packages.

            When fitting a helmet, it is important to ensure that there is a snug, but not “tight” fit around the head, with no awkward pressure points at the forehead or temples. Also, ensure that the helmet sits level on the head, with a straight angle across the forehead. All too often people wear helmets which are either too loose or too big resulting in an exposed forehead and severely restricted protection. Hats and beanies worn underneath, while providing extra insulation and warmth, will actually create a layer of dead space between the skull and helmet, increasing the acceleratory force between the helmet and head, and thus diminishing protection. It is therefore imperative that if something is worn over the head between the helmet that it is as thin as possible. Silk-weight liners are perfect for such use, however many will find that modern lined helmets provide sufficient warmth and storm protection for most conditions.

            Lastly, make sure it looks good! Many companies are now taking the integration between goggle and helmet to be a serious issue when fitting a helmet.

            Base layers can be made up of synthetic fibers such as Polypropylene, polyester, wool, or even a blend. All will insulate the body when wet, however each fiber has its own proprietary characteristics that make it desirable for specific activities and uses.

            Polypropylene is an engineered synthetic fabric constructed from Low Density Polyethylene (LDPE) that was designed with the specific function of transporting moisture away from the body in mind, thus keeping users dry and capable of maintaining proper core temperature. Therefore, it excels as a base layer fabric for active sports. It is highly functional-yet-affordable, widely available, and also oftentimes comes from a recycled source such as repurposed drink bottles. Downfalls of “polypro” are a propensity toward retaining bad odors, sometimes even after only one particularly active day, and finicky washing/drying requirements, as the fabric can shrink and even melt if temperatures are set too high.

            Wool has managed to evolve in recent times with some help from clothing manufacturers and shake the “itchy sweater” association that many remember from years past. “Merino” wool has taken the natural fiber market by storm, offering enthusiasts a wool product that is devoid of itchiness, while also having superior durability and insulation characteristics. Also of note is merino’s unique capability in fighting stench. Unlike polypropylene, it is common to forget about a wool top in a backpack after wearing it on a long ski outing. Then  having the ability to pull it out to use it the next time without it needing washing to remove nasty smells. This comes from the presence of a naturally microbial substance called lanolin within the fibers. Taken from the Merino sheep, which is prized as an economically efficient and renewable source of fiber, merino wool is a modern replacement for old world itchy wool. It does, however, come at a premium price compared to its synthetic brethren. Polypropylene tops range in price from about $35-$70. For a similar piece in wool, cost is more likely to be in the $80 to $100 range.

Both wool and polypropylene are offered in a variety of different “weights,” ranging from a silk-like knit that is perfect for high-output activities such as running or Nordic skiing, to expedition weights that will keep users warm even when sitting still on icy chairlifts. The key is to figure out which weight provides the proper balance of transpiration and insulation. An important question is “how much do I sweat during a given activity?” A good guideline is to err on the side of lighter weight when choosing one’s base layer, as other insulating layers can always be added on top, yet going shirtless on a particularly strenuous hike or skin is never recommended.

Base layers are undeniably a huge factor in the system of clothing used to keep people safe in extreme conditions. Making smart and well educated decisions when selecting which type of fiber to use can help ensure a comfortable experience for all! 

~ Jordan

            The most important factor in whether a glove or mitten will be warm is fit. Too small and the many tiny capillaries and veins inside each finger start to become constricted, limiting the amount of blood flow to appendages. Too large and there is excess dead space surrounding the hand, requiring additional valuable thermal energy to heat. A snug, but not tight fit will ensure that the body’s own warming defenses are able to work at their most effective capacity.

            The biggest decision to overcome after proper size has been determined is whether to choose gloves or mittens. Gloves have the obvious advantage of giving the wearer a greater degree of dexterity than mittens. Due to this, many skiers prefer gloves outright in order to maintain control over poles. Also, when hiking or tooling around in the backcountry, gloves will allow users to make adjustments to equipment or use tools without having to leave hands uncovered- sometimes a dangerous proposition. Some glove models feature hand-warmer pockets to allow users to keep a chemical heat pack next to the hand for even greater warmth. In warm climates or springtime conditions, “pipe” gloves will be the most viable option for most, as they still offer the protection of a glove but without the insulation of a full winter model.

            Mittens will always take the win when the mercury dips low. Due to the fact that fingers are isolated, re-warming hands is oftentimes impossible in a glove. Once hands are cold, they tend to stay that way until a warmer atmosphere is found. The body is unable to use its own heat to stay warm. Mittens keep those fingers together and allow this natural warmth to be shared. It is also for this reason which seniors and those with limited or restricted circulation will generally find mittens to be very appealing. Choosing features such as a leather palm, thinner Gore-Tex shells, and not wearing inner glove liners are ways to ensure that users are getting maximum dexterity in their mittens.

            Some companies even offer combination mitten/gloves, resulting in a sort of “lobster claw” configuration. While these remain a premium option, they do offer a best of both worlds solution.

            Sugar Bowl’s Chalet andJudahretail locations carry a variety of gloves and mittens to keep guest’s hands protected in the wide variety of conditions encountered on the hill. The friendly staff is more than happy to assist customers in trying on and locating particular sizes and models.

~Jordan

Bases on modern ski equipment are comprised of millions of strands of polyethylene in varying densities, creating a porous surface. Wax acts to fill these pores and provide a smooth and consistent surface to repel the very thin layer of water created by the melting of the top layer of snow due to the friction induced heat between the snow and the base material. This friction can actually “burn” unwaxed skis, causing the fuzzy white appearance associated with neglected base material, necessitating intensive technician work to return damaged skis to their original performance potential, if even possible. Certain additives, like graphite, are used to enhance a waxes performance in a specific set of conditions. Perflouroether Diol is an additive that is used to increase the overall glide effectiveness of a wax, in addition to its durability and resistance to gummy or dirty snow. These “fluorinated” waxes are available in a variety of different temperature ratings and hardness compositions. This performance comes however at a higher unit cost, more temperature-specific wax requirements, and the environmental detriment caused by the introduction of fluorocarbons into the snow.

Proper application of wax is just as important as proper selection. Iron, or hot, wax, is known to be the longest lasting and overall most effective method of application. Regular hot waxing is considered by many professional ski technicians to be the only proper way to maintain and season bases. The proper tools, technique and temperature must be used for iron waxing to have its maximum effectiveness. It is also somewhat costly and time-consuming, which makes rub, or buff, on waxes an attractive option for many snow sport enthusiast. While it doesn’t have the rejuventive capabilities of hot wax, buff on waxes offer a quick and simple solution to those who don’t have the time or facilities to perform iron waxes. These waxes should be applied each time the user intends to use their equipment.

By Jordan Golnik of Sugar Bowl Ski & Sports

By Jordan

A well thought out pair of goggles is one of the most important yet most often overlooked pieces of equipment in today’s skier’s arsenal of cold weather protection gear. It is an all too common story to hear about another’s (or one’s own!) skin-of-the-teeth near miss with a tree or rock due to a fogged up lens, or the temporary blindness & coal miner face caused by the facial foam literally crumbling after years of well intended use. The proper selection and regular care and replacement of lenses can ensure both a safe and comfortable experience for all snow sport enthusiast alike!

Unlike sunglasses, goggles also give users the benefit of blocking skin drying wind and offering a higher degree of sun protection! When properly dressed and fully outfitted with goggles, beanie/helmet and facemask, skiers and snowboarders are virtually invincible to the effects of winter weather, making both the bluebird and stormy powder days that much better.

Variable Light Transmission (VLT) is an industry term for the amount of light that is reduced by the tint of a goggle’s lens. A higher VLT rating will indicate a higher reduction of light, making these lenses good for clear and sunny days. Dark amber/brown, dark green/grey, and copper lenses are all good lens choices with high VLT ratings for bright conditions. Grey tints also share the additional benefit of showing “true” colors. Low VLT tints such as rose, yellow/gold, light amber, or even clear (0% VLT) are solid choices for stormy days, flat lighting, or nighttime, offering little light reduction and increased contrast, allowing riders to see undulations and inconsistencies in the snow much better. Make sure however that the lens you select blocks enough light by looking at a light inside the store to see if there is still an acceptable level of reduction. Mirror coatings act to enhance the effectiveness of lens tints simply by reflecting light, in addition to looking cool, however they do come at the cost of reduced durability. Oftentimes it is just not possible to have one lens to suit all conditions. Manufacturers have addressed this by offering a variety of interchangeable lens options, some goggles even being designed with ease of replacement in mind.

Fitting goggles properly is just as important as the proper selection of a lens. Some models of goggle (such as the Smith I/O® seriese) or Dragon APX® come in different size frames to fit different facial shapes. Other models are designed specifically to fit these particular facial structures like the Oakley Stockholm®, which was designed specifically with ladies in mind. One way to ensure proper fit when trying goggles on is to bring one’s helmet into the store for use when fitting. This will help ensure both that the helmet does not interfere with the goggles fit, and also serve to avoid the dreaded “gaper gap”. In response to these issues many goggle models now offer “outriggers” to move the strap away from the goggle frame and position it more in-line with the profile of the helmet. Running one’s fingers along the bottom of the frame/face to feel for a flush fit will ensure that the shape of the frame matches one’s face. Oakley’s Crowbar® and A Frame® and Smith’s Phenom® are all great choices for people with small/medium sized faces amongst many others. Models like the Oakley Canopy® and Splice® as well as the Von Zipper Fishbowl® and Smith Prophecy® all offer a large fit in addition to a great degree of peripheral vision. Last but not least, make sure they look good!

Lastly, proper care for goggles will ensure that the money well spent on goggles goes the furthest it possibly can. Even the most expensive pair of goggles has a reasonable lifespan, however avoiding things like wiping the inside lens when wet or after crashing in deep powder (air-drying is the best option here, if absolutely necessary gently dabbing rather than smearing or wiping will minimize damage to anti-fog coatings). Also storing goggles in cases or bags and not over-stretching straps over foreheads or helmets will help considerably. Keeping lenses free of dirt and grime will reduce scratches, and not using cleaning agents will ensure coatings or composites aren’t damaged by chemicals.

            Sugar Bowl’s wonderful staff at both the Judah and Village Chalet Retail store locations are up to date with today’s latest goggle styles and technology and will be more than happy to answer any goggle or sunglass questions resort guests may have as well as assist in fitting and sales. Both stores offer full selections from top manufacturers like Dragon, Bolle, Scott, Smith, Oakley, Von Zipper, Anon, and POC.

            Base layers are the layer of clothing worn closest to the skin, with the primary purpose being to wick moisture/perspiration away from your body, thus keeping you dry and subsequently warm.  After your base layer you have your mid layer and outer layer. The mid layer is going to supply you with the most warmth and will be heavier than your outer layer and base layer. Once you have your base layer and mid layer chosen you then need an outer layer. There are three things to look for when buying an outer layer; if it is breathable, waterproof, and light. You want your outer layer to have a high waterproof rating to ensure you that you will stay dry. You also want it to have a high breathability rating to help let moisture out of your layers. Finally your outer layer should also be light and comfortable so that it is easy to move around in.

Stay warm, dry, and happy on the mountain!!

1. Never put them on your forehead or beanie, as the steam from your head will fog your goggles very quickly.

2. Try not to touch the inside of the lens of your goggles. There is an anti fog coating on the lens and each time it is touched it rubs a little off.

3. Always use a micro-fiber cloth to clean your goggles (never use paper towels or Kleenex as this can scratch your lenses). Most high quality goggles come with a goggle bag made from micro-fiber.

4. Dry your goggles before storing them overnight. If they are put away when they are wet or snowy the moisture can cause condensation between the lenses which is nearly impossible to get out. This applies to storing them in a locker, boot bag or even their own goggle bag.

5. Store your goggles with the lens facing up. Do not place lens down on table or other hard surfaces. This may scratch and damage your lenses.

These 5 simple steps will keep your goggles in great condition and working well for you for a long season of skiing and riding.

-Pat

For further info, please visit www.sierrasnowkite.com